How To Grow Annual Begonias Successfully

With over 1,700 different species, Begonia (family Begoniaceae) is the fifth most diverse class of plants.  Begonias are often found wild from South and Central America to India. It is impossible to know exactly where they originated, but stories of plants matching their description date back to 14th century China.
Begonias officially got their name in 1690 when a French botanist, Charles Plumier, named them after a fellow French botanist, Michel Bégon.

How To Grow In The Garden

With one exception below, begonias are plants for shade and part shade if they are to grow their best.  Plants will survive out in the sun but the leaves will tend to crack and change color to a more reddish-tone (or have red edges)
They are shallow rooted so you do need to feed at least weekly to keep them growing. This is the major cause of poor growth.
The second thing about the shallow roots is that they do require regular watering to keep them growing.  They’ll “survive” under drought conditions but not happily.


Begonia seed is barely larger than dust particles, so it is incredibly challenging to work with. 

When I had the nursery, I’d start my fibrous begonias in January for a May sales date. But I’d purchase “pelleted” seed (seed covered with a water-soluble coating) so my seeder could pick the individual seed up and put each one into its own germination area of the special trays we used.  I’d usually get a decent germination rate using this system.
I do remember one year I tried to handle the seed without a coating and handling invisible dust is the best way to put it.
My .02 is that you either buy your begonias or produce them yourself from overwintered cuttings.

Here are the major classes that you will see in North American garden retailers

  • Begonia semperflorens-cultorum or “wax begonias “are the most common. Plants are small (8-12”) mounds with rounded leaves and blooms. Flowers range from white to scarlet red.
  • Begonia tuberosa (tuberous begonias) typically have large flowers in a broad color range. Flowers can be huge and double. Since the plants are monoecious, there are always both single (male) and double (female) flowers on the same plant. The leaves are usually asymmetrical, hairy or fuzzy and have a serrated edge.
  • Begonia boliviensis is more heat tolerant than other types.  The plant branches cascade down in hanging baskets or window boxes. The leaves are similar in shape to tuberous begonias but are narrower and smooth. The flower has long, strap-like petals forming a soft trumpet.
  • Begonia hiemalis, also called elatior or Reiger begonia, typically have small to medium double flowers in a wide range of colors. These are often sold around the holidays.
  • Begonia masoniana has bold color patterns on leaves that are textured with puckers and appear coarse.
  • Begonia rhizomatous has thick, fleshy stems with large, colorful leaves. The leaves can be round or heavily lobed like a grape leaf. Some have small white flowers in the spring, and a few varieties bloom all summer.
  • Begonia rex are grown for their beautiful leaves, which are quite hairy or fuzzy and usually covered with multicolored, intricate swirled designs.
  • Begonia hybrida is used by plant breeders to show that a variety is a cross between two different classes.

Plant Reviews

Begonia ‘Pegasus’ (Proven Winners)

Proven Winners provided the plants for this review.  Great foliage plant. Never bloomed in the garden or container but I didn’t expect it to as you grow this one for the lovely foliage.

Large heavily variegated leaves were upright to 12-18 inches. Held well up and other plants could be tucked under it to fill up the open spaces.

I grew it both in containers and the main shade garden (shade loving plant – not sun) and it grew equally well in both conditions.

If you want a good foliage plant, you won’t go wrong with this one.

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A Quick Cure For Yellow Leaves on Pansy Seedlings

If you’ve been growing or starting your own pansy seedlings, you may have noticed a yellowing of the tips and edges of the new growth. This generally happens because the new growing plant is in a too-alkaline soil and the plant and is starved for iron.

The solution to this is to acidify the soil so the pH is 5.4–5.8.

You can do this carefully by adding vinegar to your irrigation water – a teaspoon a litre to start (approx 2 tablespoon per gallon)

Stop adding vinegar as soon as the yellowing stops.

It is also possible to add chelated iron to water and spraying it on the leaves as a foliar spray. Follow directions on the iron product for proper measuring ratios.

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