Plants You Can Grow From Cuttings

This is a basic list – it doesn’t (obviously) 😉 include every plant in our gardens but it should give you a rough idea of what kinds of plants you can propagate
I’ve tried to list the common garden plants here but this is by no means an exhaustive list of plants that can be done from cuttings.

And just because a plant is on this list doesn’t mean it’s “easy” to do this way. Some will be easy – some tricky – but they will root if you – the gardener – give them what they need.

  • Arborvitae
  • Abelia
  • Abutilon
  • Acanthopanax
  • Achillea
  • Actinidia
  • Ageratum
  • Amsonia
  • Anisodontea
  • Antennaria
  • Anthemis
  • Arabis
  • Arbutus
  • Arctostaphylos
  • Ardisia
  • Armeria
  • Artemisia
  • Azalea
  • Baptisia
  • Barberry
  • Basil
  • Beauty Bush
  • Bittersweet
  • Blackberry
  • Bluebeard
  • Blueberry
  • Bougainvillea
  • Boxwood
  • Broom
  • Buddleia
  • Calamintha,
  • Callicarpa
  • Campanula
  • Carnation
  • Caryopteris
  • Ceanothus
  • Ceratostigma
  • Chaenomeles
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Chrysogonum
  • Cinquefoil
  • Cistus
  • Clematis
  • Clethra
  • Clockvine
  • Coleus
  • Convolvulus
  • Coreopsis
  • Cosmos
  • Cotoneaster
  • Crassula
  • Cryptomeria
  • Currant
  • Cytisus
  • Dahlia
  • Daphne
  • Delosperma
  • Deutzia
  • Dew Berry
  • Dicentra spectabilis
  • Dogwood (shrub)
  • Dutchman’s Pipe
  • Erigeron
  • Erodium,
  • Erysimum
  • Eupatorium
  • Euphorbia
  • Forsythia
  • Fuchsia
  • Gaillardia
  • Galium, Sweet Woodruff
  • Geranium
  • Germander
  • Geum
  • Grape
  • Gypsophila
  • Halesia (silverbell)
  • Heath
  • Heather
  • Hedera
  • Helenium
  • Helianthemum
  • Helianthus
  • Helichrysum –
  • Heliopsis
  • Hemlock
  • Hibiscus
  • Holly, American
  • Holly, Japanese
  • Honeysuckle
  • Hydrangea
  • Hypericum
  • Hyssop
  • Iberis
  • Juniper
  • Kerria
  • Lamiastrum
  • Lamium
  • Lantana
  • Lavandula
  • Lavender
  • Leptospermum
  • Leucothoe
  • Lilac
  • Linaria
  • Lonicera
  • Lychnis
  • Marjoram,
  • Matrimony Vine
  • Melissa
  • Mentha
  • Mock Orange
  • Nepeta
  • Ninebark
  • Oenanthe
  • Origanum
  • Pachysandra
  • Pea Shrub
  • Penstemon
  • Periwinkle
  • Persicaria
  • Petunia
  • Philadelphus
  • Phlox
  • Phygelius
  • Physocarpus (ninebark)
  • Poinsettia
  • Polemonium,
  • Poplar
  • Potentilla (cinefoil)
  • Prickly Pear Cactus
  • Privet
  • Prunella
  • Raspberry
  • Rhododendron
  • Ribes (currant)
  • Rose
  • Rosmarinus
  • Rudbeckia
  • Russian Olive
  • Sage
  • Salix
  • Salvia –
  • Santolina
  • Saponaria
  • Saxifraga
  • Scabiosa
  • Silene
  • Snapdragon
  • Snow Berry
  • Speedwell
  • Spiraea
  • St. Johnswort
  • Stachys
  • Stevia
  • Taxus (yew)
  • Teucrium
  • Thuja
  • Trumpet Creeper
  • Verbascum
  • Verbena
  • Viburnum
  • Vinca
  • Viola
  • Vitex
  • Vitis (grape)
  • Waldsteinia
  • Weigela
  • Willow
  • Wisteria

Click to go to plant propagation articles.

How To Stop Crying About Squirrels Destroying Your Tulips

Controlling squirrels in the garden is a major pain in the anatomy but here are a few things that really work.

Flower Bud Protection

1) The number one recommendation is to feed them.
Yes, I know that this annoys the heck out of you but the truth of the matter is that this animal (essentially a rat with a fluffy tail) is territorial.
You can get rid of as many as you like, and they’ll still keep coming. They outbreed almost everything else out there (they have to – the average squirrel only lives 2 years) so they’ll simply keep on coming.
Feed them – particularly when the bulbs are in bloom when there’s not much else to eat out side –  and they’ll tend to leave the plants/blooms/buds alone.
2) Use a squirrel-off type of product and spray it onto your plants.
These are noxious tasting substances (the higher the concentration of the chemical bitrex the better) that the animal does not like.
Critical: To succeed with these products, you have to spray early (before they start eating) and regularly during the season (after rains or every 7-10 days. follow product label advice) so the animal doesn’t take a bite and like it.

If the animal does eat some before you spray, they learn this is food they like to eat.  Then you spray.  The squirrel doesn’t like this new taste but it’s already learned it does like it. (And once a squirrel makes up its mind, it doesn’t seem to change it.)  So they’ll “try” the rest to see if there’s another one they like the taste of. They’ll snip the flower off, decide they don’t like the taste and move forward to the next one. Your coverage has to be complete and regular.

All other tricks – pepper, hot sauces etc etc are not overly effective at stopping them from eating your buds or flowers (or even digging up the bulbs). You see, they wash off with dew or rain and need to be applied darn near every day.

Bulb Protection

1) Protecting your bulbs in the ground – see advice number one above.
2) My favourite tip for controlling squirrels is to water newly planted bulbs heavily – turn the area into a mud zone. This will stop the squirrels from smelling the bulbs, remove traces of recently disturbed soil (a visual clue they apparently use) and they don’t like muddy feet.
3) Mesh screens placed over top of the bulbs work but make it really hard to dig in the garden afterwards. I never use mesh screens for this reason but there are folks who swear by them.

You can read other flower bulb articles here.

Get Outstanding Blooms Growing Your Fall Chrysanthemums This Way

Many folks assume the fall chrysanthemums normally seen in garden centers are hardy perennials and I’m here to tell you (unfortunately) that is just ain’t so.

Are Mums Annual or Perennial?

The fall mum normally found on benches is a tender perennial and in a USDA zone 4, you’ll rarely get it to successfully overwinter two seasons in a row. Having said that, your garden may have a warm microclimate next to a house or special spot that allows you success with growing fall mums but on average, they won’t.  (Note you can find other articles about perennial flowers (here)
There are hardy varieties / species and they are listed below along with their hardiness ratings. Normally these are found on the perennial benches of garden centers.

Growing Tricks

The trick to growing fall mums and getting them to flower heavily is to treat them in a specific manner.

  • They like full hot sunshine.
  • Give them shade and they get tall and leggy.
  • They like regular and deep waterings all summer long. Figure soaking them at least twice a week.
  • They like to be fed. Feed with compost in the early spring and then give a booster of fish emulsion every two weeks to really pump them along.

How Many Times Does A Mum Bloom?

The answer to this question is generally once a year.  The blooms are triggered by a reduction in light levels and this happens naturally in the fall.

One of the things I should point out about growing fall mums is that the spring is the critical time to succeed with this plant.  Dig the “babies” or offsets off the mother plant when they’re about 4-6 inches tall (late spring)  Don’t worry about trying to save the mother plant – the odds are it’s not going to survive the winter in very good shape anyway.  Get those babies!  If the mother did survive in my gardens, I’d dig it up and compost it anyway.  The best flowering seemed to come from those offsets.

It is also a very easy plant to propagate from cuttings. And a cutting taken in very early spring will grow out to a full blooming plant by fall if you grow them properly

Do not mulch this plant over top of the plant! It will rot out.  While it likes constant moisture during the summer months, (this is not a dryland plant) it absolutely hates it during the winter

Can I Get My Indoor Mum To Rebloom Outside?

If you get a fully grown and flowering mum for Mother’s Day, then yes you can get it to rebloom in the same year.  Cut it back as below (about one third in the case of potted mums in 6-inch pots) and replant in garden after danger of frost has disappeared. It will rebloom in the fall.

Will It Survive The Winter?  Probably not but hope springs eternal so leave it and grow it as below in the section Double Duty From A Fall Mum.

How Big Do Mums Get

Well, that’s a “depends” kind of answer.  If you prune them as I recommend in this article, they’re going to grow to “about” 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) and about 24 inches (60 cm) wide.

If you don’t prune them, they’ll tend to grow tall and leggy (falling over in a fall rain) and around 36 inches or 90 cm tall.  See below “The Biggest Growing Trick”

The Biggest Growing Trick

Here’s the major trick in growing fall mums! Let them grow in the early spring and when they reach 12-18 inches tall, cut them back by half so they are only 6-9 inches tall. This will force the plant to bush out and produce more shoots. (more shoots equals more flowers)
Allow leaves on the bottom shoots. In other words, do not cut back so far as to remove all leaves.

If you don’t cut them back at 18 inches tall, they will continue to grow to 3 feet tall and produce flowers on top of the plant. A reduced number of flowers I note.

Double Duty From A Fall Mum

If you want to get double duty from the garden, allow the fall mum to overwinter in the garden where you’ve planted it.  Assuming it survives do the following.

Dig it up in the spring. Divide off babies from the main mother plant to increase your fall display. Replant in the vegetable garden.

In the fall, move it back to the garden to fill in bare spots. And then allow it to overwinter there.



At this digging and moving time, you’ll see all the babies around the main plant.

These can be pulled off the plant and as long as they have a bit of root, they’ll grow into full mums by fall if treated well by keeping them watered.

I’ll often throw away the woody center in the spring (it’s often dead anyway) and only grow the surrounding babies into full flowering fall mums.

Mums can also be easily propagated in the spring from divisions and or tender tip cuttings.

Unsure how to take cuttings? Check out my Plant Propagation ebook

Hardier Fall Chrysanthemums

These are some of the tougher plants on the market.
The old style of mums such as

  • Chrysanthemum x rubellum ‘Clara Curtis’ and
  • Chrysanthemum ‘Mei-kyo’.

Chrysanthemums bred in Minnesota including:

  • ‘Inca’, light bronze-orange, double button, low, early
  • ‘Burnt Copper’, copper orange-bronze, double pompon, tall, midseason
  • ‘Centennial Sun’ bright golden yellow, double decorative,medium height, early
  • ‘Minnautumn’ reddish bronze, formal decorative, low, midseason
  • ‘Minngopher’ crimson red, decorative, low, late
  • ‘Minnruby’ ruby red, decorative,low, midseason
  • ‘Snowscape’ white with purple tips,semi-double decorative, low, early
  • ‘Mellow Moon’ cream, semi-incurved decorative, medium, midseason
  • ‘Minnwhite’ white, decorative,low, early
  • ‘Rose Blush’ mauve, decorative, low-medium, midseason
  • ‘Rosy Glow’ deep rosy pink, decorative incurved, medium, midseason
  • ‘Snowsota’ white with cream centers, pompon, low, midseason

You can find other perennial plant articles here.

You can find both seeds and plants of fall mums here at Amazon.

Solving These Three Problems Will Cure Spindly Plants

If you want plants that grow well in your area – or heirlooms or anything other than the generic plants sold by the big box stores and most garden centers, you’re going to have to start them yourself. Here are the basics related to tomato care.
The easiest thing for home gardeners to do is sow seeds directly into small pots of soilless mix. (Promix or similar).

Figure two seeds per pot (and thin the seedlings to the strongest one after 3 weeks).
Grow as many pots as you need plants. This will give the transplant enough room to grow and develop a thick top and full root system.

A plant that has been grown in its own pot will not suffer transplant shock when it is moved to the garden as much as a smaller cell-pack plant. (essentially, they have bigger roots)
Giving adequate space is particularly important if you do not have full outdoor light levels with a greenhouse or large grow light system.

Crowded seedlings tend to be long and thin.

Grow light systems will be needed if you donʼt have a greenhouse or full south-facing window (and maybe even with the window too).

Keep the lights about 4-6 inches above the seedlings as they grow (move them upwards but keep them close or your seedlings will get spindly)

If you need a LOT of seedlings, you can sow them in a flat by keeping the seeds approximately 1-inch ( 2-3 cm) apart. Then transplant them into growing cells. The problem here is that unless you have adequate light levels you will produce inferior transplants.
The soil temperature for germinating tomato seed should be around 72-73F (23C) . Use a heating cable or mat to produce this heat because room temperatures will only give sporadic germination.
When seedlings break the soil around the 10-day mark, reduce the temperature to 64F (18C) and then when they have 4 true leaves, reduce the temperature again and grow on at 59F (15C) .
Too high temperatures produce spindly plants.
Feed seedlings twice a week with a quarter-strength fish emulsion or other liquid plant food. A lack of fertilizer will create a tall spindly plant.

Lack of light, too much heat and not enough fertilizer can create the same spindly condition. You have to identify which one is the culprit.

Get them all right for short, blocky, dark green, fast-growing transplants.

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My Three Favorite Blue Perennials

When it comes to my favorite blue perennials, it didn’t take long to come up with the first one. The other two were a bit more challenging (there are so many great candidates) but I’ve selected several for you to try. 

Geranium ‘Rozanne’

This perennial geranium is one of the longest blooming plants in my garden and this alone gets it first place. Starting in very early summer, it springs into a mass of violet-blue flowers and continues with this pace of blooming right to the very bitter, cold end of fall when winter sweeps across my garden.

  • Grow it in the full sun or light shade for best blooming.
  • Grows 12-18 inches tall if left to sprawl by itself. Will grow taller if crowded. I grow mine on the edge of the garden allowing it to hang over the raised beds down into the pathways. It would be a perfect plant to hang down over a wall.
  • Grows 36-inches wide give or take a few inches.
  • Propagation is by division in the early spring just as it is starting to grow.


How could I talk about my three favorite blue perennials and not write about growing Lavender?
Between the fragrance and the delightful flower spikes for a very long blooming season, this plant deserves a place of honor in my garden (and it gets it right beside the front door).
Grow in the full, hot sunshine. The hotter the better for this heat-loving perennial flower.
Grows 8-30 inches tall depending on variety but generally you’re going to see an 18-inch flowering plant if left uncrowded.
Grow in a well-drained soil (no clay) and shear the blooms after they are finished to promote a second flush of blooms.
Do not feed or water other than a shovel of compost in the early spring. The fragrance is much better if left alone.
Propagation is by tip cutting

I had a lot of trouble deciding on the last one of three of my favorite blue perennials but had to finally pick the plant I’ve collected for a few years and the one that’s slowly taking more and more space in my garden as I add newer varieties.

Nepeta or Catnip

Ornamental catnip is again one of the full sun perennials that has to be included in this list. It’s a long-season bloomer that lasts from mid-summer until late fall in my garden. While I’m not overly fond of the fragrance, I’m enchanted with the blooming.
Grow this is the full sun or very light shade. It will get powdery mildew or botrytis if it doesn’t get enough sunshine.
Growth to 18-inches depending on variety and at least 24-30 inches wide.
You can propagate it by cuttings or an early spring division to get even more for your garden.
As a note – if your Catnip isn’t cut or bruised, cats won’t bother it at all. But as soon as you bruise a leaf or cut it to release the fragrance, you’re going to have visitors.

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