How To Encourage Bumblebees In Your Garden

I was at a garden party the other day and when several small insects – gentle giants – bumblebees – zoomed across the garden, our hostess went ever-so-slightly berserk. Indeed, while you may wonder how one would go “ever-so-slightly” berserk, given that berserkers rarely do it in a small way, you do have to understand that our otherwise gentle hostess was about to nuke this small and harmless insect. She had seen a bumble bee.

Now, regular readers know that I’m a great fan of bumble bees. Anything that loud and stumbly in the garden has to be great fun.I’ve loved them ever since I read that some scientist had conclusively proven they couldn’t fly and whether this little bit of lore is true or not, it endeared me to them completely.

And this is not the first time I’ve seen a bumblebee or gentle honeybee mistaken for a wasp, indeed those small sweat bees we see gently hovering around the garden (they don’t sting by the way) are often mistaken for loathsome small wasps.

Even wasps, those terrors of the afternoon picnic, are not all bad guys in the garden.

Wasps are famous predators of garden pests and left alone to do their thing, the adults and larva chow down on all kinds of aphids, caterpillars, and pests that eat your flowers. The small adult sweat bees (actually Hover Flies) are stingless and while a bit of a pesky flier, they’re simply after the sweet nectar and pollen. The young ones though are Attila the Huns of the garden world, ridding your garden of aphids, thrips, and even small caterpillars.

So, what we have here is a classic failure to communicate.

The chemical advertisers have convinced us that a good bug is a dead bug and we’ve bought into that thinking.

The reality is quite different and only a very small percentage of insects are true pests in the garden and come with no redeeming qualities. With the exception of wasps that nest in garden areas and tend to sting quite quickly, I see no reason to remove any insect from the flower or vegetable garden as it is either eating a garden pest or about to be eaten by another insect.

Sure, knock pests off your plants with a strong jet of water or hand collect those potato and squash beetles but leave the chemicals in the cupboard. In fact, if you’re really smart, you’ll encourage insects to come to your garden so the good guys will eat the bad ones.

And here’s how to encourage bumblebees

Eliminate the chemicals, even organic ones. Yes, I know that sounds a trifle harsh but even rotenone is a very powerful chemical and can upset the ecological balance in the garden. Allow the natural cycle to establish itself while you mechanically protect your favorite plants with jets of water and sticky traps.

Learn how to recognize good bugs and bad ones. There are only a few bad ones and they can be controlled by mechanical means. If you have to use a spray of some kind, ensure it is a specific spray. For example, Bt is a specific spray that only kills caterpillars. Diazinon is a general spray that nukes almost every insect (good and bad) it finds and does some not-so-nice things to the environment along the way.If you only attack the bug that is doing the damage and not the predators that are trying to eat it, you’ll be doing us all a favor.

Plant a wide variety of plants in your garden. This includes natives as well as imported garden plants. The wider the variety the better, as this diversity will enable a wider range of insects to thrive in your yard. Fruiting trees and shrubs attract birds and you know how voracious they are when it comes to pests. The pollen from the assorted flowers will provide food for insects and some birds. You might think that hummingbirds eat nectar as their main source of food but the reality is that they consume many times their weight in insects; in fact, they are regular aphid-killing machines. Plant it and they will indeed come.

Plant natives and food plants such as dill in the back corners of your garden where you don’t care if some bug chows down and reduces all the leaves to lace. Allow the pests to thrive in the back corners and the predators will survive as well. Other candidates include: sweet alyssum, fennel, lovage, coriander, white lace flower, gaillardia, cosmos, tansy, sunflowers, and Echinacea. Allow some leafy vegetables to flower.

It is a great idea to have some shallow water in the garden where both bumblebees and other garden inhabitants can drink. If you’ve ever seen butterflies at a puddle on a hot day, you’ll quickly recognize the value of a drinking area. And frogs and toads appreciate a bit of water and mud; if you’ve ever seen toads eat slugs, you’ll want to help them out all you can. Toads also love a bit of protection and large rocks or logs provide shelter for them out of the noonday sun.

So please confine your berserking to planting excessive numbers of flowers in your yard and leave our insect pests to themselves. They’ll sort it all out eventually and all we need is the patience and wisdom to allow them to do so.

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How To Use Barley Straw To Stop Pond Algae

Let me give you the real deal on controlling algae or green water in your pond using barley straw. Lots of websites would love to sell you this material (at some incredible prices) so here’s how you can make best use of this product.

Understand that it does work. But that you have to follow directions very closely or you’ll not only waste your money but add to the problem by adding more gunk into your pond.

What are You Controlling

The problem is in the floating algae – the blue-green algae that clouds up the pond water. And barley straw does a nice job on this but it doesn’t take care of string algae very well nor the algae on the sides of the pond (you want algae on the side of the pond – it’s a good algae).

It is the chemicals exuded from the decomposing barley straw that inhibit algae growth

Water Temperature

Water temperature plays a huge role in controlling algae.

  • If the water temps are 50F (early in the spring) then the barley will take up to 6-8 weeks to begin emitting enough decomposition chemicals to control algae. This is not a spring remedy for green water.
  • At water temperatures of 68F (summer temps) then the barley straw starts working in a week.

How Long Does The Straw Work?

Once the straw starts working, it should continue to work for 4-6 months depending on water temperatures. (higher temperatures decompose the straw faster so it works for a shorter time)

How Much Straw Do I Need?

You require 0.8 ounces of barley straw per 10 square feet of surface area of your pond. Given that recommendations vary depending on a range of environmental conditions, you’re safe using 1 ounce of barley straw for every 10 square feet of water surface.

Calculate the square foot coverage of your pond. A typical pond 10 X 11 foot pond gives us 110 square feet of surface.

But we have to divide that square footage of 110 by 10 (remember the first paragraph of .8 to 1. ounces per 10 square feet) and that gives us the number 11

Multiply the 11 by 1 and you have 11 ounces of barley straw for this size of pond.

Translate that into pounds (16 ounces/pound) and you have about 3/4 of a pound of straw for this sized pond.

Not Too Much

Do Not Exceed 3.3 ounces per 10 square feet! This excess amount of rotting vegetation takes up oxygen and your fish will start struggling as will the rest of your pond’s ecology. Too much is not a good idea and more isn’t better in this case. How

Bag It!

The straw must be put into the pond so that water can reach every bit of the straw. Full bales must be broken up and bagged into some bag like nylon mesh that holds it into one place. Pond suppliers often ship the straw in net bags and these are acceptable “as is”.

If you don’t bag it, you’ll discover that rotting straw is not a nice thing to clean out one strand at a time.

How Deep Do I Put It?

Do not let the straw sink below 3 feet in the water. Important!

Once barley straw gets below that depth, research has shown it loses its effectiveness. Oxygen in the upper levels of the pond are higher and these keep the straw effective. Water currents are also higher in upper levels and these will move the secreted chemical around the pond (circulation is not a problem if you have a pump working).

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Can I Simply Put It On The Bottom Of The Pond?

Excess sediment on the pond bottom will slow down or stop the barley straw from working so do not allow the barley to sit on the bottom of even shallow ponds.
Suspend the sack from a float or for a more natural look, put the float into the straw net sack with the straw.

This will cause the straw to float to the surface. It is then easy to set up an anchor to set the floating sack at the right level and it is out of eyesight at the same time.
If you have a choice of where to put the barley straw, put it in the center of your pond or where the pump water flow will carry the secreted chemicals to all parts of your pond.

You’ll find multiple sources of barley straw here

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